Conservation

How to Store and Frame Civil War Letters and Documents

Civil War paper has already survived a remarkable amount: field conditions, the mail, attics, basements and generations of handling. Most of the damage it suffers now is avoidable, and most of it comes from well-meant storage: rubber bands, paper clips, tape, cheap frames, sunny walls and plastic sleeves of the wrong kind. This guide covers sensible, conservative storage and display for letters, discharges, commissions, orders and other documents. It is general guidance, not a substitute for a conservator on a fragile or important piece.

What actually damages Civil War paper

Most mid-19th-century paper is reasonably durable. Much of it was made from rag fiber, which ages better than the wood-pulp paper common later in the century. That durability is easy to undo. The main threats are:

A word about iron gall ink

Most Civil War letters and documents were written in iron gall ink, a common writing ink of the period. Over time it can become acidic and corrosive. In mild cases the ink turns brown and shows through to the back of the sheet. In severe cases, the paper under the ink cracks and the lettering can drop out, leaving lace-like holes.

There is no safe home treatment for iron gall ink damage. What you can do is slow it down: keep the document cool, dry and stable, avoid humidity swings, and handle cracked areas as little as possible. If you see cracking or losses along the lines of writing, house the sheet flat in a folder with a rigid support and talk to a paper conservator before doing anything else.

First steps with a new or inherited group

1. Photograph everything before you change anything. Record how letters were folded, which envelope each was in, and the order of the group. That order can be evidence.
2. Give each item a number. Write it in soft pencil on the folder, not on the document.
3. Remove harmful fasteners. Gently remove rubber bands (old ones may be stuck; don't pull), paper clips, straight pins and staples. If a fastener is rusted in place or the paper tears when you try, stop and leave it for a conservator.
4. Do not unfold brittle letters by force. If a folded letter resists or cracks when you open it, stop. Leave it folded in its own folder. Conservators can relax and flatten paper safely using controlled humidification. Home attempts often end in tears.
5. Keep the envelope with its letter. House them together in the same folder, or in adjacent folders with matching numbers. Separating covers from letters destroys context and makes a group harder to research.
6. Write down what you know. Who owned them, where they were found, and any family stories, labeled clearly as stories.

If the letters are part of a soldier group, our guide to identified groupings explains why keeping things together matters so much.

Folders, sleeves and boxes

Folders

For most documents, an acid-free, lignin-free paper folder is the best primary housing. It supports the sheet, lets it breathe, and can be labeled in pencil. One document (or one letter and its envelope) per folder is ideal for anything handled often.

Clear sleeves

Archival polyester (often sold under trade names such as Mylar or Melinex) or uncoated polypropylene sleeves are useful for items you want to look at without handling. Avoid PVC (vinyl), which can give off damaging compounds; if a plastic sleeve smells strongly of plastic, don't use it. Do not use sleeves for documents with flaking or powdery media or for pencil and charcoal, because static can lift loose material. And never seal a document fully in plastic in a damp environment.

Boxes

Place folders upright or flat in an archival box. Flat storage is best for large or fragile sheets; upright storage works for sturdy letters in folders if the box is full enough that folders do not slump. Boxes add a second layer of protection from light, dust, water and handling.

You can browse acid-free archival folders on Amazon and archival document boxes. Look for products described as acid-free and lignin-free, and for photographs, PAT-passed.

Where to keep them

The best spot in most homes is an interior closet or room in the main living area: not the attic (heat), not the basement (damp and flooding), and not against an exterior wall (temperature and condensation). Keep boxes off the floor, away from pipes, radiators and windows.

A cheap digital hygrometer tells you more about your storage than any guess. Moderate, stable humidity (roughly 30 to 50 percent relative humidity) and moderate temperatures are the general goal; stability matters more than hitting an exact number. Above about 65 percent relative humidity for long periods, mold becomes a real risk.

Framing and display without damage

Framing a soldier's letter or discharge is a natural impulse. It is also one of the most common causes of damage, because standard framing tends to use acidic mats and backings, adhesive mounting, and ordinary glass on a sunny wall. If you do frame an original, insist on conservation framing:

• UV-filtering glazing (glass or acrylic) to reduce, not eliminate, light damage.
• Cotton rag or conservation-grade mat board and backing, acid-free and lignin-free.
• Reversible hinges, such as Japanese tissue with wheat starch paste, or corner pockets that hold the document without adhesive on it. No dry mounting, spray adhesive or tape.
• A spacer or mat so the document does not touch the glazing.
• A sealed back to keep out dust and insects.
• A good location: an interior wall out of direct sun, away from heat sources, bathrooms and kitchens.

Even with all of that, light damage is cumulative. Many collectors frame a high-quality facsimile and keep the original in its box, or rotate originals on display for limited periods. If a document is double-sided, framing hides half of it anyway. And never laminate an original. Lamination is effectively irreversible at home and is widely regarded as damaging to historic paper.

What never to do

• Laminate, tape or glue a document, including "archival" tape for tear repair.
• Iron or press a letter flat, or flatten it under books while damp.
• Use erasers, bleach or any cleaner on stains or foxing.
• Write on the document itself, even in pencil.
• Store documents in a safe deposit box or gun safe without checking humidity. Sealed spaces can trap damp air.
• Separate letters from envelopes, or split a group to sell individually, without recording the whole group first.

When something needs repair, the American Institute for Conservation runs a "Find a Conservator" directory that lists conservators by specialty and region. A paper conservator can repair tears, reduce some stains, flatten folds safely and stabilize ink damage.

If you are researching what similar documents look like, compare honestly described examples: Civil War letters with envelopes on eBay, discharge documents, and sold letter group listings.